A balance of beauty and pain perhaps sums up Prague’s history rather well thankfully, today the city revels more in the former than the latter. Named after owners’ (American Chelsea and Italian Giuseppe) toddler who often supervises operations from the vantage point of his blanket, Ezra’s all-vegan menu is symbolic of a new generation of entrepreneurial young people who gravitate to Prague for its open-mindedness and embrace of what is different.Īfter all, the Czech Republic is the land that produced the likes of writers Franz Kafka, whose surname has become an adjective describing absurd situations Milan Kundera, whose landmark novel The Unbearable Lightness Of Being has been revered as a literary masterpiece since its publication in 1984 and Rainer Maria Rilke, whose famed Duino Elegies are a mystical balance of beauty and pain. In contrast, Ezra’s Bagel Café is a new addition to the Holešovice food scene. Also relatively close by is EPET Arena, an unexpected surprise between Bubeneč and Holešovice where football team Sparta’s home matches are played before enthusiastic fans in this state-of-the-art sports facility. Villa Bílek’s Chotkovy Sady tram stop is only one stop away from Hradčanská but it is an easy and pleasant amble from Bubeneč. The grand villa is totally off the beaten path and visitors are welcomed like guests rather than tourists. The villa’s ground floor displays pieces in several rooms but it is the upstairs living quarters and furniture designed by Bílek himself that convey a deeper understanding of this visionary artist. Just outside the western boundary of nearby Letná Park is Villa Bílek, the former home and studio of sculptor František Bílek who, like so many of his compatriots, created iconoclastic works that countered the status quo of his era. More substantial sustenance is found two blocks west at U Viléma, a traditional beer garden where hearty Czech cuisine and legendary beers are served in abundance on a covered outdoor patio frequented by Bubeneč locals and diplomats resident in the area. Out back is a delightful little garden where the café terrace provides a suitable location for a snack or a drink in recovery from icecream carbohydrates. Up the street, a few licks away, is Galerie Villa Pellé, a beautiful mansion turned art gallery where changing exhibits of contemporary art can present a startling contrast to the building’s Neo-Renaissance architecture. Flavours rotate constantly but there are always unusual options to complement longstanding favourites.
Immediately to the right of the tram crossing, this is no ordinary gelateria. The first stop should be Crème de la Crème for some very necessary ice cream. Bubeneč offers opportunity to stumble upon tasty eats.
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